Two days in a yurt. Mountain 3375 km. Son-Kul Lake.

Couple of times I had to cross a mountain stream, on several occasions I abandoned the road and I doubted if I needed to continue my way, but surrounding amenities and the desire to live in a yurt was outweighing all the horrors and I went further… 

28 July 2016
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Together with hilarious tourists from China I arrived to the Kyzart village. In this very place begins the track to the lake Son-Kul, which can be translated as “The last lake”, but it is one variant of translation. The lake lays on the rocky plain, surrounded by meadows (dzailoo). These meadows are used as pastures from ancient times, so the rock paintings, found on the lake’s shore tell about it. Shepherds bring the cattle to the lake and live in yurts (traditional Kirgiz dwellings made of felt).

Maskat explained me the way and advised the map-application (Soviet Military Maps), so I started my way orienting on the trail, which the map show.

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Couple of times I had to cross a mountain stream, on several occasions I abandoned the road and I doubted if I needed to continue my way, but surrounding amenities and the desire to live in a yurt was outweighing all the horrors and I went further… 

When I went near the yurt on 2500 m height a woman ran out of it and invited me to drink tea, when I tried to decline she refused it an I was sat down the table in this simple but cosy dwelling. The host of this house, the man in his 60s and his wife, who invited me to the table live on the mountain 6 months during the year.

The way further grew more and more complicated, but surrounding beautiness made me go on, I almost approached the Passover 3375 m high, I’ve never been on such height, the magnificent view opened to me.

Approaching the Passover was breathtaking, the rain clouds rolled in, I went few meters more, wore a raincoat and hooded my bag and it started hailing. At the foot of the mountain I was melting on the heat, but here I got goose skin and I was frozen by chilling wind…

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The magnificent view opened on the Passover, climbing up took me about 5 hours and I was overjoyed by climbing and the panorama opened in front of me. I went down to the lake for about an hour, but it was one of the best moments in my life, the body was tired, the wind blew through my clothes, legs merely moved, not telling about hunger and dripping wet sneakers. But inly I felt bliss, unity with the nature, and feeling of happiness…

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Going down the mountain I met a shepherd mounted on a horse, he looked upon my wet clothes and invited me to his yurt. Communicated with him we arranged that I’d live in his yurt for a couple of days. I felt my hands trembling and legs failing, but in my soul was kinda warmth and I needed to warm up my body, I set myself nearby simple oven…

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There were a daughter, a grand-daughter of the shepherd, tree grand-sons of his joined us a bit later and we sat down the table. Food of the nomads is very simple: we drank tea with sour-cream, bread and jam for breakfast, dined with the same food as for supper – usually rice or noodles with vegetables, but also there is more substantial meal – beshbarmak, dough, boiled with the meat.

After the supper I was satisfied with horizontal situation only, that’s why I moved to a little yurt and fell asleep fast. The night was cold, very, very cold, double blanket didn’t save me, it was swelling from all sides, only in morning the warmth came and I had a good sleep….

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One of the grand-sons of Sultan, it was a name of the shepherd I met, woke me up, he, as all of the nomads lives in yurt from April till September, he has some dozens of sheep, horses, cows.

Every morning and evening his daughter milks cows and horses and it brings good koumiss. The grand-sons help them, the youngest is 5 years old and he keeps in the saddle well already, the 8y.o grand-son grazes a flock of sheep.

Two nights I spent in the yurt and passed the time well with such a good people. I was surprised by the frankness and simplicity, they really like to live in yurts and bring up their establishment. I was taught to mix up the koumiss in a wooden barrel; also I saw the outskirts mounted on a horse, which belongs to Sultan. I swam in a lake, not much, because the water warms up to the comfortable
temperature very seldom, this lake remind me of Turgoyak in Miass.
After I recovered and gained some strength to come back we made a farewell photo and I took the road. These friendly people and the place with its magnificent beauty always will present to my mind.

The translation was made by PM:STUDIO English-chel.ru
Переведено: PM:STUDIO English-chel.ru

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